Okay, where'd the Refresh/Reload button disappear to ???
Actually, when I right-click to "Customize" the toolbar, it re-appears while editing, and then vanishes again as soon as I click "Done". WTF?
I have it on mine, but I can't remember how I got it. I think on a vanilla install, it used to be on the right of the... uh... "awesome bar", but I moved it to the left next to the back/forward buttons.
When I customize, by bar changes to show back, forward, refresh, stop. When I click done in the customize box, the stop disappears, and the reload and stop buttons are turned into a combo of the two, so that when a page is loading, I get the stop button, and when it's done loading, I get a refresh button.