I recently replaced a failed IBM 10GB drive with an IBM 18GB and it was working fine until last weekend (it was in about two weeks). Now it will only play in the car for 2-5 minutes before it starts stuttering and will freeze up within 10 minutes. When it freezes, it often won't power off when I turn off the ignition (don't know if that's helpful info or not). I don't think it's related, but I did put emphatic on this weekend, though it isn't loading on the player now (the file is still on the player, but I took the line out of the config that starts it). This is a RioCar running 2.00 with hijack. The player works fine on AC (ran it for about five hours last night without any problems), so I don't think it's a problem with the player's hardware, with the possible exception of the IDE cable (can someone help me out and tell me if a bad cable would act this way ?). The HDD doesn't seem bad; the player boots quickly and has NO problems when running on AC power and runs quiet - none of the whirr-clack noises you'd associate with a bad HDD.

Greetings!

The symptoms could be a cable or cold solder joint. You said that it works fine on AC power. The fact that it is not going off after the key is pulled may or may not mean anything - some cars will keep the accessories "live" for a period of time after the key is pulled.

Have you noticed any other symptoms in the car? Battery icon? Is it only when it is really hot / cold out? You may want to open the unit and verify the cable connections, and to see if it is from the batch of bad cables.

You say that it's normal in some cars for the accessories to stay on after the key is off; but my player only stays on if it has locked up. Otherwise, it shuts down when the key is pulled.

No other symptoms that I can think of. Temperature doesn't seem to make a difference (it's never cool in KC in July, but it was below 80 this morning and I had the same problem as described; same thing yesterday afternoon when it was 90+). I'll check the cable and solder joint tonight when I get home.

If it's actually crashed then it won't power off properly since the software/firmware itself does it.

Agreed. That is a rather hard crash, though...

You might want to try disabling any third party software, just to see if that corrects the problem. Are you doing any DC power specific things with hijack and your config.ini?

It could freeze because of a kernel panic if it notices that it can't read the disk properly. That's the most benign thing I can think of which would point to a bad joint or cable.
Any chance of plugging a laptop into the serial connector on the sled and making a log?

I'd thought about getting rid of hijack, but I couldn't convince myself that the problem was there, as it's fine under AC power. I guess I'll add that to the list of things I'm doing tonight.
I don't think I've got any DC-only specifications (I know my lack of Linux ability is showing here) - they'd be specified in the config wouldn't they ? Something like ;@DC ?

Exactly. I would not get rid of hijack, but you may want to disable any advanced settings and start from a basic configuration.

Also, if you force to "DC Power" mode, do you see the same problem?

I'm really hoping it's a bad cable. This is the 3rd HDD I've had with this player (and, to be fair, I don't think this is a bad HDD (at least not yet)).

I'm not sure when I'd be able to hook up a laptop; probably not until this weekend, if then. How do I get it to create a log once I've got it connected ? Is it just a copy of the output that I can get from a hyperterminal connection ?

The only settings I've added/changed in hijack are some ir_translate (hope I've got that right) so I can use my car stereo's remote. And it has the output=1 that's necessary for emphatic.

When you talk about forcing DC mode, is that one of the hijack options ? I seem to recall seeing something like that there, but I can't bring up the player now (being at work and all).

It should be part of the hijack menu, if I remember correctly.

Yeah. Just copy the stuff that appears on the hyperterminal window. I can't remember the serial port speed though in the car. I think it's 9600 instead of 115200.

Standard in DC mode is 4800 (due to that's the GPS rate, normally), unless it has changed in one of the latest versions of Hijack.

Stig

Ah okay. You can tell how many times I've used the serial port in the car! Found it in the FAQ as well

I'm wondering about power spikes...Or loose sled connector wires.

I can check for loose wires when I pull the sled out to build a log (via serial). How would I be able to check for power spikes ? I've a buddy who's an electrician; is there something I should ask him to check with regard to power spikes ?

Hmm. I don't know whether the average household electrician would have appropriate tools. It really needs a scope to look at that.

Do you mean it turns off immediately when you turn off the power?

This would indicate a common sled wiring fault. Have a look in the FAQ.

Do you mean it turns off immediately when you turn off the power?
This would indicate a common sled wiring fault. Have a look in the FAQ.

No, that wasn't the fault as bauble reported it, the statement was the opposite...........

Quote 1) ............but my player only stays on if it has locked up. Otherwise, it shuts down when the key is pulled.

Quote 2) When it freezes, it often won't power off when I turn off the ignition.

Having said that, given the problems only occur in the car I think I'd be checking my sled wiring as you recommended

Cheers, Sim

OK; I wasn't able to open up theplayer last night (I got home way too late), but I did borrow a laptop and connected to the player through it. I've (hopefully) attached a text file with the hyperterminal messages.

Is it supposed to be so different from what I see when connecting when it's not in the car ?

Also, the message at the end ("VM: do_try_to_free_pages failed for kswapd...") would come up with every skip.

Here's a copy of the hyperterminal text that I got this morning.

You're correct, simspos: it not shutting off when it locks up (intermittently).
I was thinking that the problem might be with the sled, but what should I check for ? I've got it loose, but not disconnected (that is, the sled is not attached to the bay, but all the wiring is still attached), and there's nothing that blatantly obvious to my admittedly untrained eye.

Could you post your config.ini file? That might help. The error looks like the player is trying to swap out memory and cannot do it, or that the player application is running out of memory.

Sure; here's a copy of the config.ini:

[synchronise]
seq_num=69
[wendy]
flag_amount=0
[custom]
wendy=
[searches]
amount=0
[VisualFavourites_AM]
count=0
[VisualFavourites_AUX]
count=0
[VisualFavourites_DSP]
count=0
[VisualFavourites_FM]
count=0
[display]
play_count=1
visual_names=1
caching=0
[kenwood]
disabled=0
[menu]
quit=0
sort_playlist=1
[shuffle]
deduplicate=1
[hush]
hushpercent=20
[volumecap]
enabled=0
[ramp]
disabled=0
[controls]
stalk_side=none
[tuner]
region=us
[Options]
Name=Phoenix
[User Info]
[email protected]
Phone=816-250-xxxx
Name=Bob L
[sense]
muteaction=0
mute=-1
[power]
off_timeout=60000
[aux]
source=
title=
artist=
[Network]
Gateway=0.0.0.0
Netmask=255.255.255.0
IPAddress=10.168.2.50
DHCP=0

[output]
notify=1

[hijack]


[ir_translate]
00AD5240=Top
00AD5243=Right
00AD5241=Bottom
00AD5242=Left

00AD5258=Shuffle

Hmm... Okay. Nothing that I was looking for (DC only settings, reservecache, etc.)

Is there anyone physically nearby with an empeg that you could use to help test? Try your unit in their car and try their unit in yours?

I'd thought that that was what that error might be indicating. But I'm stuck as for why it's only a problem in the car and not at home. I don't think I'm running anything different on DC v. AC.

I really don't know if there's anyone in the area (Kansas City). I'm inclined to think the problem may be with the sled, but I don't know any way to test it other than a swap-out as you'd suggested.

It's definately not supposed to do that. It's the kernel complaining about the swapper kernel thread not being able to free a page. Odd. I've never come across that error before. It's especially strange that it only happens in the car. Mark Lord may be able to help if he's somewhere near a computer on his travels...

Don't know if it's related (though I don't see how it could be), but I had problems when installing emphatic (due to my lack of knowledge with Linux) and I ended up with 3 copies of the emphatic file (2 in the root and one in /bin if I'm remembering correctly). The 2 in the root were created (I think) because I didn't have a /usr/bin directory (whatever the default for emphatic is, I may have mis-remembered) when I ran the emphatic install. I later modified the install to put the file in the /bin directory. I'd assumed that the choice of directory wouldn't make a difference. And I didn't (and don't) know how to remove the extra copies.

As I said, I don't think this could cause this problem (espcially since it's only a problem when in the car), but since I can't say for sure, I figured I'd fess up.

Worst case, you could always flash back to the stock kernel and see if that fixes everything. Annoying, but it might be a quick fix, or a troubleshooting step.

Would it be worth reloading the full player software, or is that what you meant, certainly can't do any harm?

I was thinking that the problem might be with the sled, but what should I check for?

Sorry, but checking for the blatently obvious is about as scientific as it gets for the wiring without resorting to a swapout. Specifically, look at where the wires enter the docking connector for any that might be coming loose.

Good Luck, sim

Well, he does say:

Otherwise, it shuts down when the key is pulled.

...which is why I asked the question! I think you misread me - I was aware he said it won't shut down when crashed. That is one problem. However, if he turns off the ignition and the player goes out, that means either:

- he has set his sleep timeout at 0 seconds in emplode
- he has mis-wired the permanent and switched power lines.

In the second case this means that session info could be lost when he turns off the ignition. You have absolutely no idea what state the machine will be in when it comes back.

If it's crashing/hanging while playing, I would say that this is probably likely to be an overheat problem aggravating either the IDE header soldering problem, or a dodgy drive cable.

Two ways to check this: install HiJack and check the temperature to keep an eye on how hot the unit is in normal operation before a hang. Secondly, get hold of a serial dump from the player while it is in the car, preferably just prior to a hang.

One of the reasons why there is a power line filter built into the harness is to filter the main, non-switched supply to the player. Normally, this is the car's "Memory" feed to a conventional head unit. However, this is the one the empeg uses. If you have the two wired the wrong way, you could be using the switched supply to feed the player in the sled, and who knows what rubbish could come down the pipe.

I think HiJack temp readings and serial log are a good starting point.

[power]
off_timeout=60000


Set for 60 seconds sleep timeout, and yet bauble says that the player goes out immediately the key is pulled. This says he has perm/switched swapped.

Mind you though: I still don't know if he means the player "stops" by correctly sleeping with the winker LED on for 60 seconds, before switching off, or the whole shebang goes out when the key turns. So this is still supposition.

If I read the txt log: it could be failing memory (overheat?), or no available swap memory (config issue) or inability to swap to disk. However, this is a RAM disk in flash, not on the hard disk.

If the player is forced into Car(DC) mode with HiJack, do you get this behaviour at home on the AC adaptor?

What temperature does the unit run at in the car?

Have you run the memory stress test (after it has been runing for some time in the car)?

I've been running hijack and have been checking the temp pretty regularly while it's in the car and I've never seen it over 117F.

And, if it helps: I can't verify anything about how the wiring was done as I paid Best Buy to do it a little over a year ago (and it's run fine between then and now). Are the wires you're referring to labelled such that a sub-novice electrician like me could tell what he was looking at ?

All this message says is that the player has run out of memory, and the virtual memory manager is complaining about the reason why this is happening.

Yes, they are clearly lablelled, but you would have to take the sled out of the dash and leave the wires connected to the car harness so that you could check out how the connections have been made. Ideally, you would need to take voltage measurements on the connectiosn to find out what their behaviour is while the ignition is on, and off.

Alternatively, if you had a wiring diagram for the vehicle, you should be able to see from the colour scheme how it has been wired by best buy.

I don't recall you saying which car you had. If you have a VW or a BMW, they have swapped the swtiched and permanent power wire positions in the ISO connector, and this leads to problems. You can check this out in the FAQ. The quick way to test this is to answer: if the ignition is turned off, does the empeg go to sleep for 60 seconds as you have it set (winker LED stays winking) or does it just go out, phut?

I think at this stage, given that there are now so many variables being stirred in the pot, it's almost impossible to work out where the problem is. However, it is pretty obvious that it is something to do with memory management.

If I were you, I would simply re-install V2.0 standard WITHOUT HiJack or any other third party problem. If the problem persists, then it is likely you have a hardware problem and we can begin a diagnostic. Whether the problem lies in the car, or the player, we have yet to determine. But until the number of variables is reduced, we can do nothing to work out what this is and we are all just scratching our armpits.

I don't think I'll be able to run the memory test in the way you suggest because the buttons stop responding after the player starts stuttering. And because I don't know how to run this test. Is it a part of hijack ?

No, it's a part of the player bootloader/diagnostic.

As soon as your player hangs, take it out of the sled and get it to a serial connection. Re-boot it on AC. As soon as you stick the plug in, hit Ctl-T as the boot loader starts up. You may need to do this a lot to get it. There's a section in the FAQ about how to do this. This will run through a hardware diagnostic and do a looping memory test. Make sure you have the correct connection settings (115k 8N1 No Handshaking).

The more I think about this, and having just re-read your initial post, it seems to me you have either got a duff drive cable or the IDE soldering issue. It would be worth taking the lid off and the drives to have a look at the board with a magnifying glass to see if you have the problem.

If it is IDE related then turning on the Disk Indicator should help in the diagnosis.

Well, I'm posting shamefaced today; it seems I was the cause of the problem: after I got home last night and checked the cable and solder points as well as I could (all seemed OK) , I re-loaded v2.00. My player ran fine all the way in to work this morning (about 30-40 minutes). I'm thinking the problem must have had something to do with the way I jacked up the emphatic install.

Anyhow, humble thanks to everyone who replied and were patient with a Linux-impaired owner.

Bob

It is still curious / unusual that you would not see the problem with AC, though. I am glad it is working for you, though!

Yeah, that was the point that had me stuck. I still don't understand it. But since it's working, I'm not going to complain too loudly.

Unless he had ;@DC starting emphatic.

True, but he posted his config.ini above. There were no signs of any AC / DC specific programs.

Actually... I'm in St. Louis, or near it... and I've had this stuttering issue too. But mine only seemed to start after I had installed Empire and the files needed for Palantir. Basically when mine does it the song will play slow or just start stuttering completely and no controls will work to allow going to next song or shutoff or anything. I have to pull the player and put it back in and all is OK. I just recently did a drive upgrade (about 2 months ago) but I don't think this is the issue as it never had the problem before the Empire install about a month ago. And I have my player in work with me 8 hours a day on AC power and have never had the problem rear it's ugly head... but never made a connection until this post that it only happened in the car

I have a theory which may be completely whacked but I'll throw it out. I have a 96 Acura with no tinted windows. When I'm in certain areas, the "laser" alert on my radar detector goes off... Well, it is set off by bright sunlight. I have found this out. The sun puts out IR as well as a lot. What I wonder (but have not been able to prove) is that something in the Ir_translate function is being triggered by the sunlight... AS Kansas City and St. Louis are in the same climate. I mean, it's a whacked theory but it seems odd to me that a unit less than 300 miles almost due west from me is also having the same problems...

Just a thought...

Try adding
[Startup]
ReserveCache=4
to you config.ini

I reproduced this. Here's the interesting thing. It only started happening when I moved the disk tray from one player to another. I did not reinstall. Watching the serial port, I see the try_to_free_pages message in car mode, but not home mode. The player is in a dock the whole time.

The problem is I can't manage to run ps while it's in car mode to even see what the difference is, it destroys itself too fast.

I wonder if setting the car rate high enough that it can clear the messages will fix that.

And in fact once I set the car_rate high enough, it's fine. And I bet the only difference is where the serial port output goes in home mode versus car mode or somesuch. Gah.

Well, good enough. I'm not going to worry about it.

Somehow I must have missed this thread originally, but my advice for in-car stuttering is to simply up the serial port rate to match that used on AC power: 115200 and see if the problems "go away". Unseen messages spewing over serial have baffled many folks in the past, and since the car rate defaults to a paltry 4800 they can totally kill the kernel.

Cheers

Eh, the right answer is to make the kernel not tell me that (try to free pages) message more than once. Once I lost, I lost;-)

Yeah, I figured setting things to 115k would fix it, but I wanted to see if there was a difference since I got no messages in home mode. Nope. Good enough.