How many of you are still interested in purchasing a sub/center out board? I know it's been a while since I mentioned anything about it. I am still slowly developing it, but if there isn't much interest, I may abandon it, as I really have no use for one myself. I have other more interesting projects in the works, and right now this is serving as a bit of a distraction. Too many irons in the fire.

Why do people want one? It seems most want it for sub out, but at least for me, my amp has a built in high-pass filter that takes care of that task already. I suppose this is not the case for many.

So if you really want one, speak up!

Stu

Hi Stu,
I would be interested in a sub out board, with a crossover control, and db + and - gains. Maybe even another amp remote wire too so you have the option to turn off the sub amp completely.

One of the main reasons i would want this, is to be able to fade the front and rear highs independently of the subs. Right now i have front RCAs going to the front highs, and the rear RCAs to the rear highs, and the sub amp.

But if I’m the only one, then don’t worry about it

Hello there,

I would probably be interested dependant upon price, I'm also not particularly fond of cutting holes in my empeg. So I'd want to run it through the mic pins on the docking connector as I don't realistically see VR appearing any time soon.

I would like one, but it seems like someone have to make some mod. to the player
as I would like to be able control the sub out board from the player itself..
Genixia?? Mark??

TommyE

Yeah, I'm also interested, again depending on the price. But I wouldn't object to it being on the back-burner, it's not a matter of urgency!

Cheers.

I'd also be interested depending upon price. I'd also like to be able to control gain and toggle power to the sub.

Cross-overs can do this. I have a Coustic 5e (or something like that) which I bought for those exact purposes but ended up using the internal crossovres of my amps instead. I didn't think the 20x4 amp came w/ them, hence why I bought the cross-over in the first place.

The Coustic has connections for remote front-center and rear-sub volume controls in addition to typical crossovers for both the front and rear.

That sounds kind of cool... but all the coustic amps I'm lookin at www.coustic.com only seem to have remote sub control? Where did you get your amp?

I would be interested if it could be somehow integrated with the existing harness (wouldn't be that great if you had to unplug RCA's everytime you got out of your car)

I would be interested if it could be somehow integrated with the existing harness (wouldn't be that great if you had to unplug RCA's everytime you got out of your car)

Thanks guys. I am making a new harness for my player that will route the digital S/PDIF signal through the mic in line as per previous discussions elsewhere on the BBS. This weekend I hope to have one finished. This would work for the sub board too.

Stu

Hi there,

I'm still interested in one of these. The key thing I'd like to do is change the sub amp cross over frequency and levels from inside the car, ie while I can listen to the effect.

It would also be useful to store a number of presets that are available from a hijack menu. I presume that the hijack code to tweak the DSP is still forthcoming? Can this be done?

I don't mind a self assembly kit, I'll even give surface mount a whirl if necessary! As for price, I guess £50 would be about the most I'd want to pay for this. Any more and I'll stick to clambering over the back seats instead!

Thanks for your efforts with this. If you get to the point where you have something working, but not enough interest to order parts and sell kits, why not post DIY instructions and part numbers instead? If you've already invested significant efforrt in getting this working, then I'm sure noone would mind paying a small fee for this information.

And there seem to be quite a few electronics savvy board members out there that could put these together for interested punters.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Yeah, I would only be interested if it were part of the harness,
I would not want the hassel of taking off the RCA's all the time...

i am still interested in a sub-out module, but i worry about the price. unless things have changed, i seem to recall that the sub-out goes as an addin to the digital-out, therefore requiring you to buy both modules.

speaking of the digital-out.... i would buy one of these if there were more avaliable amps that support digital and doesnt cost an arm and a leg. if there was even a product that went rca -> digital -> rca, it would replace the monster rca cables from my empeg to amp, and hopefully eliminate the noise that it picks up while going from the front of the car to the back.

You already know I'm in for one, so this is just to remind you.
Did you get a chance to try that die yet?

Dave

Hi! I would also be interested, depending on price.
Would it also be possible to route the signal through the line in connectors?
Is it true that the sub-out is an addon for the digital output board?

Thorsten

Yeah, I most probably would, but it would depend on price and how difficult it was to install.

Yes, it would be possible to run the sub out signal through the line in connectors. Just find which wires they are on the dock harness inside the Empeg.

Yes, it is true that the sub-out board is an add-on to the digital out board. Here's why: The signals the sub out board uses are too weak to run unbuffered. The digital out board has a buffer that buffers all I2S and clock signals. There is a spare line in the buffer for the sub/ center out channel (the Serial Data 2 line from the Empeg). By using the existing buffer on the digital out board, it will make having both the digital out board and sub out board inside the same player a much more feasible proposition, as the sub out board can be that much smaller.

Stu

Sorry for the delay in my response. My cross-over (that I'm not using) supports the center channel and rear remote volume features.

My amps (old rockford punch kidney bean amps, 60ix and 4040) have internal cross-overs. The 4040 (20x4) has 2 crossovers for the "front" and "rear" channels in addition to a crossover for the combined output rcas. They run to my punch 60ix for the subs.

I've got some wild ideas on using the "rear" 2 channel of the 4040 so acheive my rear fill and center channel speakers. Use one of the sides (left or right, doesn't matter) and patch it to the "center" channel output of the crossover then use the rear rca's, mono them together and run them from the other channel. The other pair remains your front stereo speakers.

Since I'm in a jeep wrangler, this is all full blown overkill to begin with, much less adding the crossover and center channel speakers to go with a car stereo with 9000+ tunes.

Would all of the additions fit with 2 hd's? I also would be interested.

I also have a friend (not on this BBS) who would be interested. I probably would send both units at the same time if the boards become available.

Let me try to get working on this again then. I have to tear apart my Rio to find the problem with the grounding. I believe I did get the gain up to achieve 4 volts P-P, but an oddity with the ground remains.

Given the size of the sub board, I don't think it will be a problem to stash it somewhere in a 2 HD unit.

Stu

Great, hope everything works out. Just curious, can you do a capacitor fix while you have the unit in for board installs?

In reply to:

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Just curious, can you do a capacitor fix while you have the unit in for board installs?

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Of course, whatever you want. We've done a number of repairs of various sorts on other players. It's always been free of charge. Just something we like to throw in I guess.

Stu

Well, I managed to destroy my prototype board in the process of fiddling with it. I did get another strung together version to work, but I've desided to just throw out the design I was using (eval board active filter) in favor of one designed from scratch. This new design SHOULD work better. Anyone wanting to build their own, just download the CS4334 eval board from Crystal's website, If you want to get 4 volts P-P you will have to modify the circuit, but that is up to you. Otherwise just wait for me to finish .

New design will have a more solid ground plain, better components and better design. It shouldn't take long to finish. MAYBE later this week.

Stu

Hey!

Just wondering what the status on the board is. Will there be an offering? Hoping so!

I wouldn't rule it out, but it hasn't been working the way I would like and is pretty low on my list of priorities as I don't need or want one and relatively few others do as well.

Stu

DoH!