Last night I got my nerve up and installed the LED kit from Eutronix. I did it without a magnifying glass but I am not sure how I did it. For the most part everything worked just fine. When I tested the board for the shaft LEDs off the empeg it worked fine. When I put it on it worked and did not work depending on how I pushed it around.

I finally realized that the problem was that I had a little bit of solder from one of the LEDs that was touching the hole, or ring, or circle that goes down over the shaft. After I removed the offending solder all of the LEDs worked as advertised.

I just have one small problem, the display is now rather dim. I think I probably smoked a fuse somewhere in the trouble shooting process.

I have looked in the FAQ and at the fuse replacement web page. Both mention the fact that there are multiple fuses and to make sure to check them all. What I have not been able to find is an overview of all the fuses and where they are located. Does such a rosetta stone exist? Have I simply overlooked it?

Aside from that the only real problem is that the LEDs only look good until I reassemble the player. My stock buttons and knobs of course hide all of the light. I am however optimistic that I will either make or buy some translucent buttons. I have never falied yet when it comes to molding translucent plastic. Of course I have not tried yet either, but I am not going to let that stop me.

You can tell what a fuse looks like just by looking at the example pictures linked from the FAQ, and since all fuses look the same and are easy to spot on the PCB, you can just test them all.

I keep thinking that my display is slightly dimmer now than before I installed the lighting kit. I'm not certain, though, because it would only be a marginal difference if any, so I'm not sure if it's my imagination. But I think it really is a bit dimmer than when I got it.

And actually, I think it got dimmer only after I changed out the 3-LED pcb for a 4-LED pcb. So I, too, am wondering if I damaged anything.

So I am also curious what all the components are that might have an effect on the display brightness and how to test them. There are some in the FAQ, but I wonder if there are any more than those, because I've checked those and they all seem OK.

I will check everything that looks like a fuse and see what I come up with. It will likely be a couple of days before I can open it back up, but I will let you guys know what I find.

I did notice that if I put the LEDs at the max setting it substantially dims the display compared to any other setting.

I did notice that if I put the LEDs at the max setting it substantially dims the display compared to any other setting.

Okay, then something definitely is wrong there. My display brightness does not change no matter what the brightness level of the buttons is.

If you can't find anything wrong with the fuses or the lighting kit installation, perhaps you just need the capacitor fix?

Greetings!

Check here for the site on the location of the fuses and their replacement.

I think he already clicked on that link, and was trying to find a picture showing where all of the fuses are located instead of just one or two. My point was that you don't need a picture, once you know how to recognize the fuses, you'll be able to see all of them and pick them out.

Mmm.. perhaps the wrong value resistors got included in your kit. Do you know how many ohms were used for the LED resistors, and for the button LED resistor pack? Should be at least 1K ohm resistance in series with each LED.

-ml

It's possible this is due to the 5V fuse on the main board being blown, hence the LEDs would be powered off the same current limited 5V from the onboard regulator as supplies the VF filament heater.

Check the fuses!

Hugo

The three fuses can all be seen in the picture with the arrow.



One is the one the arrow is pointing to. The next is directly to the right (in that picture) of the first. The third is just on the other side of the 20-pin header: the leftmost horizontally mounted one. As stated, they all look the same.

I finally got around last night to blowing apart the empeg and testing the fuses. It is definitely a fuse. Spcifically, it is the one pointed to by the arrow in the picture in Bitt's post. I know I can get one of these from Digi-Key for less than 79¢, but they want $5.00 handling for orders under $25.00. Is there a better place to get these?

BTW, I have a couple of other players that I don't use as much as this one. (Total of three in service) One is a MkII and one is a MkIIa, the one with the bad fuse is a MkIIa. If I were to put the drive tray and display board on one of the other empegs, could I use either the MkII or the MkIIa? I guess what I am asking is the level of hardware/software interchangeability between MkII and MkIIa models

We have them if you need them. PM me if interested.

Stu

Yes, the drives and display can be swapped to the other unit. Use extreme caution when swapping the display board.

Although I don't understand why you're quibbling over a 5.00 shipping charge to get one of your empegs working properly again. If it were my player, I'd pay many times that amount in a heartbeat.

Tony,

Thanks for the swap info. I will be careful when swapping the display board, although I expect it will not be nearly as difficult as it was to do the LED hack as I do not need to bend the display back this time.

As for the price, please don't get me wrong, it is not that I have a problem paying $5.00 for anything empeg related, but If I can get it from Stu or someone else faster and most likely cheaper I will. Besides, I would rather my money go to someone on this board than to Digi-Key if given a choice.

Stu, I sent you a PM

There's something just wrong for paying $5 shipping for a 5¢ part.

I have some fuses courtesy of Hugo, and could mail one to you for free. But I'm away from them for another nine days or so right now.

Cheers

We're sending him some for free also courtesy of Hugo

Stu

There's something just wrong for paying $5 shipping for a 5¢ part.



I must respectfully disagree.

I would be surprised if they could find and retrieve that part from stock, package it up, put a label on it, and mail it for $5 without losing money. Remember, there are probably three or four people involved in that process (the person who receives the order, who then tells somebody to go find the part, who then gives that part to somebody in shipping to box it up and mail it out, and then somebody has to do the bookwork -- taking the part off the inventory list, preparing the billing, entering the data in the computer, etc.

Figure in the cost of the postage (minimal, in this case) and the cost of packaging... I wouldn't do it for $5. Not and expect to make a profit.

tanstaafl.

In a big organization like Digi-Key I would completely agree with you. That was one of the reasons I wanted to see if there was someone on the board that could supply the fuse.

BTW, in the mean time (while I am waiting on the fuse), I transplanted the drive tray and the display board into my spare Mk2a and was pleased to see that the display (and new LEDs) are working fine. Once I put the new fuse in the main player it should be back to normal.

Thanks again Stu for the fuse, and to everyone else for the helpful advice.

No, I understand the fiscal implications of it all, and I agree, you're probably right. However, it's just viscerally abhorrent to pay a 10000% fee when that fee is usually such a minor cost. I agree that your brain tells you it makes sense, but your heart says otherwise. It'd almost be better if they just charged $4 for it and had a $1.05 shipping fee.

Maybe rather than the cost of the component we should consider the value of a fully working empeg. I agree that $5 shipping on a 5c part seems terrible, but $5 shipping to repair one of the modern wonders...

Remember, there are probably three or four people involved in that process (the person who receives the order, who then tells somebody to go find the part, who then gives that part to somebody in shipping to box it up and mail it out, and then somebody has to do the bookwork -- taking the part off the inventory list, preparing the billing, entering the data in the computer, etc.

They need to update their technology then. Only person that should see that order is the picker (the guy that gets the item from inventory and puts it in the box). Everything else should be automated. It should cost them a matter of cents to get that order out the door.

And yes, I've seen systems like that in action. The pickers hold handheld computers that are on a wireless network. The computer not only tells them the next order items, but also what size box to use and which items to put in each box. When they pick the items from inventory, they use a barcode scanner on the handheld to verify that it is the correct item. The computer automatically does the inventory management. Once the items are in the box (also verified by barcode), they just set it on the conveyor belt where the box is automatically filled with filler, sealed, stamped with shipping information and rolled onto the truck. It's quite cool to behold if you ever get a chance.

Once the items are in the box (also verified by barcode), they just set it on the conveyor belt where the box is automatically filled with filler, sealed, stamped with shipping information and rolled onto the truck

Now I have an image in my head that I just can't shake...

A single tiny SMT fuse in a box accompanied by nothing other than white peanuts. When you open it, you find yourself looking for a fuse in a peanut stack.

LOL

I know that is not how it works (or should work), but I still can't get it out of my head.

I know that is not how it works (or should work), but I still can't get it out of my head.

Actually, the SMT fuse is in a little plastic thing, but that's pretty much how it works, usually.