Absolute snake oil - at least for your application.
Look at the heat transfer mechanisms in play - conduction and air transfer are the major factors in a house. Radiative is minimal.
They *do* insulate well against radiative - so tests can show a reasonable performance cf rockwool etc. But in situ it's just not relevant. There are similar 'foil' linings for roofs - the consensus (including self-builders who've used them) is that they don't work. If this stuff did work then it would be used in applications like fridges + freezers. They still primarily use 'foam'.
I've been looking at this for *years* wrt building my own house. I've found that to make your house warmer :
* Identify draughts and block them - doors, windows, gaps in the floor (depending on construction). : this is the single best value action. A few pennies on draught exclusion can save a fortune. Of course it may already have been done.
* Loft/attic insulation : next best value job. Get a pro to do it - in the UK there are grants.
http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/proxy/view/full/2019/grantsandofferssearch* Cavity wall fill : not applicable but the next best
* If you are lucky and have good access under the floor you can fit insulation under there. Obviously not for concrete
![smile smile](/images/graemlins/default_dark/smile.gif)
After that the payback isn't worth it
![frown frown](/images/graemlins/default_dark/frown.gif)
Occasionally you get an opportunity to renovate and you may want to lose 4" off an external wall by using plasterboard over battens with well fitted insulation.