Other than the empeg I have
MB Quart 6.5" components up front w/ tweeters
MB Quart Coaxials in the back
JL W3 12"
JL 500/5 amp
and a Kicker x3i active crossover

Clarion DXZ615 acting as pre-amp
JL Audio 300/4 for in-cabin
JL Audio 250/1 for subwoofer

JL Audio VR600-CS up front (mids low in the door near kick-area, and tweaters at mid-door near side mirrors (below shoulder))
JL Audio VR600-CX in the rear (pointing toward center of car roughly - stock Integra angle)

JL Audio Microsub 8.2 (that's 2 8" W0 drivers in a semi-cylindrical ported enclosure)

5900 songs on the empeg right now (60GB) - mounted under the Clarion in my dash.

1995 Acura Integra GSR.

Bruno

Sweet you have a Teg
awesome I have a 95 SE saving up for turbo right now
how in the hell did you get two units in your dash? I wanna know because I have a kenwood receiver that I wanna put in there.

I posted some pics of the install a few weeks ago. You should be able to search for the post.

The Integra's dash is practically a double-DIN. I had to trim a bit of a lip from the bottom and top of the mounting hole in the car. I attached both cages (of the Clarion and Empeg) with duct tape (and a small spacer to account for their own small front lips) and then used the bending tabs on both to secure them to the dashboard.

Because the Clarion has a plastic frame that clips around the front of its cage, I also had to sand that a bit on top and bottom (you can't see it) and I dropped the face plat of the empeg a little bit (mine was set too high from the factory).

Given the chance to do it all over again, I would make sure NOT to mount the empeg cage flush with the Clarion cage. That's because the Clarion head sticks out the front a lot more than the empeg. Offsetting the empeg cage forward (toward the cabin), I would have been able to make them both match a lot better and I may not have needed to sand the plastic Clarion frame.

Bruno

Links: www.mypocket.com/images/indash1.jpg & www.mypocket.com/images/indash2.jpg

Still in boxes on the floor:

Blaupunkt overdrive components, 6.5 front and 5.25 back
Blaupunkt PA4100 amp
Rio Car 60GB head unit

My list.

Memphis 16-ST2004 amp (4x50)
Infinity Reference 4652 front
Infinity Kappa 692.3 rear

Looking into getting a sub (JL Audio Power Wedge Single 10")

In the car:

McIntosh MC440 amp driving JL Audio XR400-CX coaxial speakers in-dash, run on a three-way crossover using a Canton Pullman 6" mid-base in each door, JL Audio 3" coaxials in a custom fiberglass enclosure for rear fill, and twin 8" Canton pullman base drivers (in the same enclosure) for bass.

All required equipment due to the convertable nature of the application, I'm afraid.

When it's not in the car, the Empeg is attached to one of these:

Office: Creek 5250 integrated amp with Vienna Acoustics Haydn bookshelf speakers

Home: B&K AVR202 with Martin-Logan SL3 electrostatic speakers

'96 Camry LE Sedan

Pioneer DEH-P8200
Infinity Reference 652i - Fronts
Infinity Reference 6913i - Rears
Sony XM-404EQX 4x40 amp

Looking to get a sub. I want something with quick, tight bass...not punchy. Had a Rockford Fosgate punch amp and dual 12" MTXs, and it was way too punchy/boomy and overpowering. Any recommendations? Everybody says go for the JL 10". What amp would be good for that? Also, are any subs that have built-in amps good?

the infinity basslink is a powered 10 in a box.

empeg Mark 2 w/18 GB storage.
Clarion HX-D10 AM/FM/CD
Audio Control 30-Band 1/3 Octave Parametric EQ w/signal matching L channel
Audio Control 30-Band 1/3 Octave Parametric EQ w/signal matching R channel
ADS P-850 8-Channel Amplifier 50 watts/channel @4 ohms w/electronic x-overs
MTX Thunder 250 Class D Amplifier for Subwoofers, 175 Watts/Channel @2 ohms
MB-Quart Q-Series 4" Coaxials (in top corners of the dash)w/passive x-overs
MB-Quart 5.25" paper-cone in-dash center-channel speaker, w/passive x-over
Boston Acoustics 6.5" mid-range speakers in top front corners of doors.
Boston Acoustics 6.5" mid-range speakers in roof by tailgate
Boston Acoustics 10" Subwoofers (2) acoustically coupled in single box.

This system is installed in a Taurus station wagon with SHO powertrain and interior.

By using the balance and fade controls on the head unit, and the separate gain controls on the amps, I can, if so desired, direct the entire audio output to any single speaker in the car. This, combined with the band-pass crossover and separate gain controls available on each channel pair in the P-850 Amp and the dual Audio Control equalizers, gives me considerable tuning/tweaking capability.

tanstaafl.

only all that ...

Sony ES 770 & Empeg
Boston Pro fronts, Rally series rear, and Pro subs
Rockford Fosgate Power series amps
RF cpacitor and lots of monster cable
(And since my Empeg has an EQ, I'm done installing!)
I put it all in myself!

http://www.sallee.org/greg/Eclipse/Eclipse.htm

In a 1991 CRX:

EMPEG head unit
Alpine PXA-H600 phase processor
XTANT 3300x 3 channel amp
DEI 2365 3 way components (in kicks/doors)
NHT 1259 12" subwoofer

The Alpine is there primarily to add digital time alignment adjustment. Next project is to figure how (and if possible at all) to get a digital output of the EMPEG to avoid the DAC and ADC processes between the EMPEG and the Alpine.

For IASCA competition, I plug in a portable CD player (Sony with SPDIF output) into the Alpine (it has multiple inputs). Not ideal, but that's the only reason I ever want to play directly from a CD player.... and I didn't want to have an indash unit the other 99% of the time.

CRX Audio System

I'm not sure where to ask this, but you seem as you may know better than most...

I had to replace the stock amp/unit in my car (98 Grand Prix GTP with the "premium sound package")

I replaced it with the Alpine MRV-F303, and it sounds like crap now, the highs and high-mids are fine, but the low end sounds like shite. It's a reduction in quality from the stock (which did sound pretty nice.) Originally it sounded *terrible*, until I realized that the dolt installers had the crossover on 100hz, cutting out all the lowend period.

1 Is the amp "allright", "decent", or "crap"?

2 Is there something I'm doing wrong (I set the Crossover off to 0 hz) or that they may have done wrong?

3 Anyone know what the "premium sound package" pontiac was using in 98 was? I had heard before that it had something to do with Bose, possibly the speakers, as the Headunit said AC-Delco on it.

Thanks!

If you set the low frequency filter to 0Hz, then how can you hope to hear your bass? Try something around 80Hz as a starting point. That cut-off will "cut off" anything ABOVE the number you dial in.

Bruno

I turned the high-pass and low-pass settings off, so it shouldn't really affect it either way

In MKIV Golf GTI Turbo ...

Empeg 20gb
Standard Gamma Head w 6CD feeds Aux In on Empeg
Kicker IX405d Amp 4x60w + 1x390w
I Farad Cap
2 x Infinity Perfect 12.1 Subs in Ported Box ..
Standard Fronts and Rears ... for now.

Greetings!

In a 1998 Buick Riviera

Empeg: Mark2, 96GB, Smoke, 2.0b7 + Hijack 136
Upgrade in Progress: Mark2a, 120GB, Smoke Lens, Maple Burl Fascia, 2.0b7 + Hijack xxx
- upgrade to occur when all parts are in and I can transfer all files over
Tuner / Tape / CD: Factory head unit connected through speaker -> line adapters to aux in (rarely used)
Amp: Alpine MRV-F357 (5 channel with built in crossover)
Front: MB Quart DSD-213 (components)
Rear: MB Quart DKC-169 (6"x9"s)
Sub: Kicker 12" Solo Baric L7 (a must)

How do you find the 12L7 :?

I heard they were really difficult to drive ... does it give you a real thump in the back ?

Right now I have the OEM setup that came with my 2000 Eclipse GT +
a JL Audio 500/1 sub amp
2 88120.4 Eclipse aluminum subwoofers
30Gb Rio Car

I am very dissapointed in how this turned out, because there is just too much bass. The amp is turned down as low as it goes and the bass is still overpowering. It just isn't that controllable with the stock headunit.

I plan to add this May:
an Eclipse CD8051headunit (with subwoofer volume control)
JL Audio 300/4
MB Quart QSD 216 6.5" component set for the front
MB Quart DTC 169 6 x 9 for the rear

Has anyone heard the MB Quart QSD 216's? I'd love to hear from you.

Greetings!

To be honest, it sounds very good to me. To me, it sounds nice and crisp, with a nice punch as needed. Unfortunately, most of the music I listen to does not showcase it as much. Many of the older pieces I listen to were not mastered with the low end in tact. On tracks where it is present or highlighted (examples: Phish - Down With Disease, Blue Man Group, etc.) it really shines!

If I have any complaints, I need to do some tweaking of crossover points and I have alternator whine that I have not bothered to trace yet. But, keep in mind that this is my first non-factory implementation. So your milage may vary.

Tin can and a string

Oh, so you did get the upgrade from the paper cups.

Tin can and a string

Yes, but the details, man! The details!

Nylon or cotton string? How much tension on the string? What size can? Do you keep the can empty, or do you fill it with cotton to get a warmer sound?

Don't just tease us like that -- tell us what you've got!

tanstaafl.

Oh, and let's not forget the most important part, what did the cans contain before you emptied them, beans, corn, peas?

I've heard you get the best bass response from bean cans

What speakers is your alpine amp driving? If it's not driving your full-range speakers and it's driving something that's primarily a sub, then it may sound like crap because you haven't set a low pass filter frequency.

Bruno

The 500/1 has enough settings to be able to easily negate the bass. For starters you have a small switch that will do an easy job of cutting the sensitivity to the input source (the low/high input voltage switch - set it to "HIGH" and it will be less sensitive, producing lower volume). Then you also have your input sensitivity (aka gain). You can also adjust your low pass filter frequency to limit what goes to the subs as well as turn down the bass boost.

If you have your amp set up completely on the low side, you can probably stop those subs from making even the slightest rumble. You've got one of the most versatile amps around.

On the JL site, go to the docs section, find a page that uses subs as close in properties to the ones you have and set the amp up to the recommended defaults. Then go from there. First thing to do would be to adjust the sens switch and rotary to your liking.

Bruno

I've got some PSC 216's in my Civic up front, and they sound amazing. No complaints. Different model... so YMMV.

bwaahaahaa!

Ok, the details.

for highs I use edgel corn Kernel 100g tins with 0.8mm wire. They sounded a bit harsh so I put a small bit of cotton wool and blu-tac inside.
For mids I got a bargain pair of 385g beetroot slices and 1.8mm nylon twine. they give a nice strong midrange without being overwhelming.
Now the bass is faithfully reproduced by a trio of 3 litre tropical punch fruit juice. They are roped together and signal is supplied by 4.8mm hemp rope. It's a little bit light but I hope to upgrade to an eight pack of pineapple juice for some deep tight bass.

I dont have installation pix yet but I can work on it if you like.

Thanks for the advice on the JL amp. Actually, the sensitivity is already set on high and the bass boost is turned off. If it helps any, the inputs to the amp come from a speaker level adapter mounted behind the stock head unit. I don't know why I had to pay for the adapter considering that the amp has speaker level inputs, but thats what I have. I haven't fiddled with the input sensitivity setting, I've just been taking my installer's word for it that it's turned down all the way.

Stu